Episode 19: Ireland Like a Local

Mary Herendeen:

Marvelous views by land and sea, friendly pub culture, and incredible music make this beautiful place a space at the top of my bucket list.

Welcome to Traveling with AAA. I'm your host, Mary Herendeen. Today, we are traveling to The Land of Saints and Scholars: Ireland. We are joined by Jessica Colley Clarke, a New York-based freelance writer. Her stories have appeared in The New York Times, AFAR, Condé Nast Traveler, Bon Appétit, the Financial Times, New York Magazine, and Saveur. She's married to an Irishman and considers Ireland her second home. Jessica is here to give us the insider information we need to really immerse ourselves in Irish culture and traditions, so we can travel like a local.

Jessica, thank you so much for joining us.

Jessica Colley Clarke:

Thanks for having me on, Mary. Excited to be here.

Mary:

Thank you, we're excited to have you. Now, like I said, Ireland's been at the top of my bucket list, and it's just thinking about that beautiful scenery and imagining myself in one of these pubs. Ireland has a reputation for being one of the friendliest, most welcoming places in the world. When did you take your first trip and what was your first impression?

Jessica:

I first visited Ireland in 2007, and I remember arriving at Dublin Airport and all the people, even passport control, being so warm, humorous, and cheeky. So, for me, that first impression was really striking. I had no clue then just how deep my obsession with Ireland would run, both as a journalist and also in my personal life. As you mentioned in the intro, I met my now husband just a few days after I stepped foot in Ireland for the very first time, just walking down the street in the center of Dublin. Some people who encounter my writing assume I have Irish heritage, but I don't have any Irish background at all. There's just something about the place. It has so many layers, a soulfulness, and that just draws me back again and again.

Mary:

You can really see that. It really is a beautiful place, and I imagine it feels like home when you go there if everybody is so welcoming.

It seems like everyone wants to travel like a local these days. Jessica, you have a wonderful article in the current issues of Westways and AAA Explorer magazines about pub and bookshop culture. And it really sounds like the best way to get a local experience is to visit a pub, but that seems very different than just going to a bar in some other country. Could you tell us a little bit about Ireland's pub culture and what visitors can do to fit in?

Jessica:

Sure, so the pub in Ireland is an extension of the Irish living room. It's an alive place. It's central to the community, and that's important because so many people who travel to Ireland may never get to go inside an actual Irish living room, but they can still have that same experience in a pub. I guess my advice if you want to fit in is to treat the pub like you would someone's home. Don't be in a rush. Be patient and be sure to ask questions. It seems simple, but talk to the barman. You might find out he's the pub owner or his family owns the pub, and he probably knows every restaurant, swimming hole, and walking trail within 100 miles.

For example, this past summer, I was in rural County Donegal and I had a couple of hours to kill so I asked the man who was sweeping up the bar in the hotel, who turned out to be the owner of the hotel, what he would do with 2 hours and he gave me step-by-step directions to this hidden pink sand beach. And it was just a stunning place that I never would've found on my own.

Mary:

Wow.

Jessica:

I'd also like to share some specific tips about fitting in at an Irish pub. I was talking about this podcast with my husband last night over dinner and his advice was, don't order a Budweiser. While it may be on the menu, be sure to order a Guinness instead. And no matter what you do, be sure to let that pint settle before picking it up for a first sip.

If you have any Irish heritage, I'd also suggest knowing the county where your family came from because that can be a great conversation starter.

One final thought on pub culture in general, as I tried to capture in my Pints & Prose story, is that when you go to an Irish pub, you won't find blaring TVs with sports or the news. People come to the pub to read or drink or talk. So, do those things and you'll fit right in.

Mary:

I actually really appreciate that because I'm not such a big fan of all the TVs with different sports on and how loud it is. I enjoy just talking over a beer with a friend or a glass of wine. So, that's right up my alley. That's my jam. Pints of Guinness, shots of whiskey, do you have to drink alcohol to feel comfortable in an Irish pub, or are folks welcoming to those who aren't drinking?

Jessica:

This answer may surprise you, Mary, but you don't need to drink alcohol to feel comfortable in an Irish pub. The pub, especially in smaller villages, it's a community gathering place. Depending on the time of day, you might walk in and see most people drinking a pot of tea. You know, families are welcome. There might be more small bottles of Ballygowan sparkling water than glasses of whiskey on the bar. But one game changer in recent years that is worth mentioning is the introduction of alcohol-free beers, including Guinness 0. After dark, you might not see as many pots of tea on the table, but order a Guinness 0, and you'll be sure to fit right in.

One of the other things to consider is that the Irish take drunk driving very seriously. So, if someone has driven to the pub, it's very likely they won't be drinking at all and you can join them in drinking an Irish soft drink. There's a popular one called Miwadi.

Mary:

Oh, tell me about that. I had no idea about this popular Irish soft drink. What's it like?

Jessica:

Yeah, it comes in a couple of different flavors. Orange and black currant, and it's just an Irish soft drink soda. You're likely to see them when you walk into an Irish pub.

Mary:

That's interesting and really great information for those who aren't drinking on their trip.

Now, the other focus of your story is about Ireland's literary culture. Why is Ireland known as The Land of Saints and Scholars?

Jessica:

Oh, wow. Where to start? You walk around Dublin, and even today, a lot of people consider themselves writers or poets. It's just such a big part of their culture. Poems are plastered on bus stops, and you listen to the radio and hear people talking about books and poems, and that's something that I really connected with about Irish culture when I first visited.

Mary:

Yeah, amazing. Some of the world's greatest writers have been an Irish, and pubs play a role in that as you mentioned earlier. You wrote an article about how to do a literary pub crawl. So, how exactly do you do a literary pub crawl?

Jessica:

The first step for a pub crawl or a literary pub crawl, according to my Irish father-in-law, is to prepare. That means that if you plan on drinking, get some ballast in your stomach, do not attempt a literary pub crawl on an empty stomach, and don't just eat a salad. Once you've had a solid lunch or early dinner, then you're ready to set out.

You have a couple options, you could join an organized pub crawl or literary tour. There are plenty of those on offer in Dublin and beyond, or you could design your own. In Dublin, you could mix in certain literary landmarks like MoLI, the Museum of Literature Ireland, between pubs mentioned in Ulysses or pubs where the poet Patty Kavanagh used to drink. But I guess the truth is that even if you don't set out on a literary pub crawl, you might be on one anyway as so many of the pubs have deep connections to writers over the centuries. For what it's worth, some of my favorite traditional pubs in Dublin include Toners, Kehoes, and Grogans. One to check out with a bit more flair in the decor is The Long Hall.

Mary:

Alright, so The Long Hall has the decor and flair. Would you describe it for us?

Jessica:

Sure, it's sort of a Victorian pub, so some very traditional Irish pubs can feel a bit a bit spare, but The Long Hall has ornate decor and red velvet, and it feels like an over-the-top old world pub that is very welcoming and has a great atmosphere.

Mary:

That sounds like fun. Now, what are some other tips you can give visitors for getting the most out of their visit to Ireland?

Jessica:

I'd say lean into the idea that you're a tourist and that you don't know anything. Irish people are suckers for humor, humility, self-deprecation. I think it activates their hospitality gene or something. And local knowledge is really the key to getting the most out of a visit to Ireland. Simply by slowing down and talking to people anywhere from the corner shop to the grocery store, to your taxi driver, you're likely to glean information that could define your trip. Maybe there's a local Gaelic football game you could attend, or a walk only locals know about, or somebody recently started a bakery truck and it only appears 1 day a week in town. Even a statement as simple as, “I've never been here before. Do you have any suggestions on things to do?” That's going to get an Irish person talking.

One other thought is don't be afraid to follow random signs on the roadside. I followed signs for an oyster farm, signs in Irish. The word trá, T-R-A, is the Irish word for beach. Even signs for coffee, I once stumbled on a coffee truck in Connemara, just perched high above Killary Fjord, I think it's called The Misunderstood Heron. And just by pulling over, following that coffee sign, I saw one of the most epic views I'd ever encountered in Ireland. So, basically traveling in Ireland is all about being open to serendipity.

Mary:

Yeah, it sounds like don't be afraid to be curious. Awesome, that's really helpful. You also write a lot about food. Tell us about the food in Ireland. Is there anything visitors need to know?

Jessica:

Oh, Mary! I mean, the food in Ireland is literally in my dreams. Oysters straight from the sea, farmhouse cheeses, even the little things like the quality of the milk in your morning tea. It's all just so stellar. But there are a few tips to make sure you find the best of the best.

First, it may sound simple, but order local. Sure the avocado has made its way to Ireland, but I wouldn't recommend going in that direction. Irish food is so sublime because of the quality of local produce. I typically opt for dishes made with Irish ingredients. A bowl of vegetable soup with a thick slice of crumbly brown bread. It may just shock you how much flavor is present in such a humble lunch. Order the seafood, don't skip the chips or french fries, ask about the specials, ask what's fresh.

The second tip I'll share is that traditional isn't the only way to go. Right now, there are so many Irish chefs that are pushing boundaries with food. Chefs who gained experience cooking abroad and are bringing those sensibilities back home and marrying them with high-quality Irish ingredients. There's a restaurant called Host in the Dublin neighborhood of Ranelagh that rivals just about any restaurant I've eaten at in New York.

For the adventurous traveler looking to go off the beaten path, during my trip this summer, I had a stellar meal at a restaurant tucked away behind the Olde Glen Bar in coastal Donegal. So, that was really a meal worth traveling for.

Mary:

Oh, that sounds so good. I love good food. And right now, it is pouring rain outside. I'm in California, and we don't often get a whole lot of rain where I am in Southern California, so now all I'm thinking about is a hot stew and warm bread. That sounds really good, especially for this type of weather. Would I be encountering similar weather in Ireland?

Jessica:

You might be. I agree with you about just how comforting that kind of food can be. The weather in Ireland is very changeable, so it may be pouring rain in the morning and then by lunchtime the sun is out. So, just because you wake up to a rainy day doesn't mean you're going be soggy all day.

Mary:

That's good news. Now, how do you find good affordable places to stay?

Jessica:

This may be one of the best things about Ireland. Yes, the country is home to many 5-star castles and luxury hotels that are phenomenal, but that's not where your average Irish person stays. And Irish people travel, so there are plenty of good, affordable options across the country to accommodate them. I've stayed in simple bed and breakfasts that are just as comfortable as the fanciest 5-star hotel, and often the breakfast is made with maybe the eggs from the backyard chicken coop. It might be even better than the fancy hotel.

I will say that off season in Ireland is home to really attractive hotel deals. If you want a steal on those 5-star hotels, sometimes the winter and spring travel can really bring that out. But even if you want to travel in June, which I'd highly recommend because the days are so long and the light lasts until after 10 o'clock at night, you could still expect to pay maybe 125 euros a night to stay at a small independently run hotel or bed and breakfast in the countryside. Be comfortable, hospitable, and they'll probably point you to great things to do. One caveat though is not to expect great water pressure. But personally, I've made peace with weak showers in exchange for everything else those places offer.

Mary:

Yeah, it doesn't sound like a bad trade off. What about traveling with young kids to Ireland? I've considered taking my little ones, I have one who will be 8 this week and a 4-year-old, and I'm just thinking about the weather, the wet, and the mud. Any tips?

Jessica:

Yeah, this is a question I get a lot, and I'll say that in general, Ireland is very friendly toward young kids. This is a country of big families. Many of my friends have 3 or 4 children, so the country is really built to accommodate them. Kids are welcome in pubs during the day, so if you're looking to experience the pub culture, I'd recommend a weekend lunch with the kids to soak up the atmosphere and the music.

Dublin also has great parks, but beyond the playground, what I'd really recommend is to do what the Irish do, and that's to walk. Explore the Wicklow Mountains, walk along the coast in Dublin, there's a great coastal path in Howth, or you could explore the beach at Killiney. Bring your rain jacket with the hood, bring waterproof shoes and you'll be fine. In general, Irish people love kids, so don't be surprised if bringing your kids along actually engages the Irish in conversation and opens the door to something fun.

Mary:

That's really great news. I think I'm more worried about somebody else's reaction to my kids running around with the mud or whatever else. It's nice to hear that there's that welcomeness and almost a joy of seeing the kids running around. So, thank you.

Jessica:

Absolutely.

Mary:

Now, we can't talk about Ireland without talking about music. From Enya and U2 to Inhaler or Picture This, where do you recommend people go to hear great music?

Jessica:

I think music is essential to the Irish experience. My single best night of music in Ireland took place in a pub called Lowry's in the village of Clifden in County Galway. Listening to a fiddler play violin there honestly brought tears to my eyes. I mentioned that pub in my Pints & Prose story.

Some other places for music include the village of Doolin in County Clare. It has one main street with lots of pubs that offer live music most nights. For something larger, the city of Galway is known for its live music, both traditional and modern. If you just go for stroll along the pedestrianized main street, you'll hear lots of music.

In Dublin, I'd recommend looking up the session schedule at pubs like O'Donoghues or The Cobblestone on the northside. These sessions are informal gatherings of local musicians, and it's just incredible to see them play together and improvise. Those sessions are usually at least weekly, if not more frequent. I'd also recommend going to the website for the National Concert Hall in Dublin and see what's on during your visit. You might catch Irish musician, Glen Hansard, or Irish fiddler, Martin Hayes, on stage and the National Concert Hall is just a gorgeous venue.

Mary:

Wow, the way you're giving advice, you really are an Irish local. It really is your second home. Thank you so much for sharing that with us. Finally, before we go, Jessica, if someone is considering a trip to Ireland, what's the single most important thing that they should have in mind?

Jessica:

I think the single most important thing is don't overschedule yourself. Ireland is a place for serendipity, but you as a traveler have to set the stage to allow for serendipity to happen. You need to go slower than maybe you're even comfortable going. That's about the right pace for Ireland. For me, serendipity is something that’s mostly missing from my day-to-day life, so that makes it even more special to find when I travel and Ireland will definitely give that gift if you allow enough unscheduled time for it to happen.

Mary:

Thank you so much for such great advice. Jessica, again, thank you for joining us today.

Jessica:

My pleasure. Thank you for having me.

Mary:

Oh, the pleasures is all ours, I'm sure. And thank you to our listeners for being with us. If you're planning a trip, be sure to connect with a AAA travel advisor, check out aaa.com/travel, or visit your local branch. If you enjoyed this podcast, please subscribe. I'm Mary Herendeen, thank you for traveling with AAA.