Out & About in Texas – April/May/June 2023

Get the most out of life in Texas and beyond with this curated collection of places to go and things to see.

By Cynthia J. Drake

The words of naturalist Henry David Thoreau greet visitors at the entrance of Johnson City’s new luxury encampment Walden Retreats (named after his famous book), setting the tone for a stay steeped in reverence of nature: “I went to the woods because I wished to live deliberately.”

Once inside the retreat’s 96-acre grounds, you stand a good chance of seeing wildlife (I spotted deer, hawks, snakes, lizards, armadillos, and my all-time favorite Texas bird, the painted bunting) as you cohabitate with them from within the plush confines of a safari-style canvas tent. The 15 tents are outfitted with air-conditioning, full kitchens, bathrooms with bathtubs, private outdoor showers, and comfortable bedding.

Guests can hike to the Pedernales River, purchase Texas wine and treats from the on-site store, and stargaze away from city lights. Rates start at $250.

1. Winding Road by Marsden Hartley, 1924
During World War I, Hartley devoted himself to making American modernism as important as European modernism, explains curator Alison de Lima Greene. He traveled to New Mexico and later painted this “recollection” in Germany.

2. Madame Ramón Subercaseaux by John Singer Sargent, 1880–1881
Curator Kaylin Weber says Sargent loved showing women in white or black dresses: “It allowed him to show off his virtuosity as a technician, utilizing various tones to capture the fabric and the folds.”

3. The Woodcutter by Winslow Homer, 1891

Weber notes the saturated color not typically associated with watercolor, and the solitary woodcutter in the expansive wilderness at a time when industrialists were escaping urban environments for outdoor pursuits.

The restaurant, which he opened in 2019, serves a full Turkish breakfast with eggs, olives, cucumbers, tomatoes, cheese, and jams in an intricate copper serving set, along with tea. After 2 p.m., guests buy marinated meat by the pound to cook on the ranch’s grills themselves. Sides include hummus and rice. Reservations required. Turkish breakfast, 10 a.m.–2 p.m. daily. Adults, $25.

By Elaine Glusac

Visitors to the Alamo can now learn even more about the pivotal battle between Mexican forces and Texas volunteer soldiers that foreshadowed the independence of the Republic of Texas.

The mission’s new Alamo Collections Center fills in more details of the bloody campaign with newly exhibited artifacts, including a .50-caliber rifle owned by Davy Crockett; epaulets from the dress uniform of Colonel Juan Morales, who commanded the Mexican forces; and an original Bowie knife—with a silver-inset ebony wood handle—commissioned by the brother of Alamo commander James Bowie.

These must-sees are among nearly 400 artifacts donated by Phil Collins of the band Genesis. Collins has reportedly been fascinated by the Alamo since childhood, having been hooked by the Davy Crockett TV series and the 1955 film Davy Crockett: King of the Wild Frontier.

The new center, which gives the compound 5 times the original space to tell the compelling battle story, also features the expansive Donald and Louise Yena Spanish Collection, with tools, weapons, and kitchen utensils from the mission era. Donald Yena, a renowned Western artist, began collecting the artifacts in the 1950s to serve as models for his paintings, which are distinguished by their historical accuracy and detail.

For more places to go and things to see in Texas, check out our editor-curated list of the best fairs, festivals, events, and more.