Celebrating the Kentucky Derby's 150th running

A $200 million redesign of the saddling paddock where the feisty 3-year-old thoroughbreds are paraded and readied for the race has been underway for more than a year. This treasured area will more than double in size, expanding from 5,000 to 12,000 square feet. The horse stalls are being moved beneath the twin spires for what will surely be an iconic view for spectators entering the track.

The expansion creates 3,600 premium seats and adds space for 3,250 additional standing-room-only ticket holders, along with new club areas and high-end dining options.

“This is one of the most significant construction projects in the history of Churchill Downs Racetrack because of how it impacts what we consider to be the heart of the property,” says William “Bill” Carstanjen, CEO of Churchill Downs. “We took great care to ensure this is designed in a way that would transform Churchill Downs while enhancing our ability to deliver on what our fans hope for and expect from us for generations to come.”

The redesigned paddock is big news, but there’s much more to see, including the eye-catching Peb murals on the clubhouse’s second floor, named for their creator, cartoonist Pierre “Peb” Bellocq. A 40-foot mural features humorous caricatures of every Derby-winning jockey since 1875, and a second one honors the trainers who helped get them to the Winner’s Circle.

To understand the Derby’s early years, stroll through the engaging “Black Heritage in Racing” exhibit that chronicles the legacy of Kentucky’s African American equestrians, who dominated the sport in the late 1800s when horse racing was one of America’s most popular pastimes.

Indeed, 13 of the 15 jockeys in the first Kentucky Derby were African American, and Black jockeys won 15 of the first 28 runnings, including Oliver Lewis in that first race. Considered some of the world’s best, these men worked as jockeys, breeders, trainers, and groomers. Jim Crow laws that enforced racial segregation in the South from the late 19th century through the mid-20th century, however, forced them off the track. For decades, their contributions were forgotten.

Exhibit artifacts include Aristides’ ankle boots and the purse that held jockey Isaac Burns Murphy’s 1891 Derby winnings. Murphy, the son of former slaves, was the first jockey to win the Derby 3 times and the first to be elected to the National Museum of Racing and Hall of Fame.

Next, head upstairs to see the museum’s newest permanent exhibit. “Secretariat: America’s Horse” honors one of the fastest racehorses in history. A media darling and a cultural icon, nicknamed “Big Red” because of his coloring, the powerful thoroughbred won the 99th Kentucky Derby on May 5, 1973, the first victory in his Triple Crown sweep.

The Triple Crown includes the Kentucky Derby, the Preakness Stakes, and the Belmont Stakes—in that order—and is horse racing’s ultimate prize. Each of Secretariat’s 3 races is shown on a 10-foot screen, allowing you to travel back more than 50 years to cheer him on—thrilling even though you know the outcome.

“We’ve seen more than one person watch these videos and shed tears,” says Chris Goodlett, the museum’s senior director of curatorial and educational affairs. “Secretariat has a passionate following.”

A floor-to-ceiling media projection illustrates what made Secretariat nearly unbeatable on the track through analysis of his impressive physical attributes, including a larger-than-average heart.

Museum admission includes a 30-minute tour of the track, but more in-depth options are available. On the 90-minute Superstars and Spires Tour (adults, $40), go behind the scenes to peek at areas inaccessible to most visitors. You’ll see Millionaires Row, where celebrity fans in extravagant hats sip mint juleps on a terrace with an enviable finish-line view.

While there’s no official Derby attire, many attendees dress to impress. Men often opt for classic navy or seersucker blazers paired with bold pants, while women frequently choose floral and brightly colored dresses. The higher up you go in the clubhouse, the dressier the attire. And hats are de rigueur for all.

Whether you attend the race or plan your visit when the ponies aren’t running, a Louisville getaway will inspire reverence for the Bluegrass State’s thoroughbred racing and its most storied event. And you’ll gain a deeper appreciation for the Southern culture that’s the bedrock of Kentucky’s largest city.

For a decadent Louisville treat, enjoy a Kentucky hot brown sandwich where it was invented—the historic Brown Hotel. The legendary open-faced turkey sandwich is topped with bacon and a delicate Mornay sauce; chef Fred Schmidt created it in 1926 as a late-night snack for guests at the hotel’s dinner dances. Try one for lunch at the hotel in J. Graham’s Café or for dinner in the elegant Lobby Bar & Grill.

While you can’t go wrong with a room at the landmark Brown Hotel (rates start at $204), which celebrated its centennial last year, a new 65-room boutique hotel in the Highlands district warrants consideration. Located in a converted disco ball factory, the Myriad Hotel offers a contemporary ambience with industrial touches. Paseo, the hotel’s restaurant, has a Mediterranean vibe and serves paella, house-made pasta, and craft cocktails. Rates start at $189.

While Louisville takes great pride in its horse-racing heritage, there’s plenty to do beyond the track.

Louisville is home to some heavy hitters in sports, none more celebrated than “The Greatest.” At the Muhammad Ali Center, discover the accomplishments of Louisville’s native son who rose to fame in the ring.

Watch some of his legendary bouts, like 1974’s “Rumble in the Jungle” against George Foreman, and stroll through a timeline of his career that spanned 1960–1981. You can even shadowbox with the champ while his boxer daughter, Laila, gives pointers from the sidelines in the “Train with Ali” exhibit.

It’s hard not to choke up watching a video of Ali, his exuberance quieted by Parkinson’s disease, as he lights the cauldron at Atlanta’s 1996 Summer Olympics.

He’s remembered not only as one of the 20th century’s greatest sports figures, but also as an activist and humanitarian. A member of the Nation of Islam, Ali cited religious reasons when refusing to be drafted for the Vietnam War. He stood his ground despite a firestorm of national criticism and the threat of imprisonment. Learn more in the museum’s Conviction pavilion. Adults, $20.

To honor another hometown sports titan, check out the Louisville Slugger Museum & Factory. It’s hard to miss—a 120-foot bat leans against the center, which displays bats once swung by the likes of Hank Aaron and Babe Ruth.

Snap selfies with lifelike sculptures of baseball greats such as Ted Williams and Jackie Robinson, and step into the bat vault that houses more than 3,000 historic models. During a tour of the production facility, you’ll see wood chips fly in the bat-making process. Adults, $22.

Immerse yourself in Gilded Age splendor with a tour of the Conrad-Caldwell House Museum in the Old Louisville preservation district. The 3-story limestone mansion, a masterpiece of Richardsonian Romanesque architecture, looms over neighboring properties.

Known as Conrad’s Castle, the home’s turrets and towers give it a medieval appearance. Unlike a drafty European castle, though, the 7-bedroom home built in 1895 had all the latest conveniences, like indoor plumbing and electricity. Guided and self-guided tours ($20 and $15, respectively) showcase Louisville’s early 20th-century social history.

Bourbon production has long been associated with Louisville, whose Main Street was once dubbed the “Wall Street of Whiskey,” and there are countless places to sample the spirit. But few settings are as picturesque as Hermitage Farm, an agritourism attraction on the outskirts of town, where thoroughbreds graze in verdant pastures. Tastings that start at $25 in the renovated stud barn often allow you to mingle with stalled horses as you sip.

Freelance writer Tracy Teo is a native of Kentucky who now lives in Evansville, Indiana.