Kohala District weekend getaway

It just may be the perfect time to escape the everyday routines and to-do lists of our at-home lives and find a new setting to gently reset and relax. Many corners of the Islands can feel surprisingly new, including historic Kohala on Hawai‘i Island.

The birthplace of Kamehameha I, Kohala reflects Hawai‘i Island’s changes through the years, from its ancient origins to its more recent ranching culture. These places to stay, visit, and dine help deliver Kohala’s beautiful land and seascapes, and arguably the essence not only of Hawai‘i Island but one’s own life as well.

Where to stay in Kohala, Hawai‘i Island

A luxurious yurt for two at Hawai‘i Island Retreat in Kapa‘au. | Photo by Unique Angles Photography

Perched on 50 verdant acres along the North Kohala coast with peaceful ocean views, Hawai‘i Island Retreat in Kapa‘au is a boutique luxury escape centered on physical and spiritual healing. It’s also a splurge worthy of a relaxing weekend getaway, with suites, bungalows, and yurts to choose from, ample private space indoors and out, and customized packages that include personalized treatments, meals, and classes.

À la carte spa treatments are available, as well as a walking tour of nearby ancient Hawaiian sites and an easy, meditative stroll to the ocean.

The 30-room Kamuela Inn is a short drive to beaches. | Photo courtesy Kamuela Inn

Another charming home base is Kamuela Inn in Waimea, the island’s ranching mecca. Set back from the road with 22 newly renovated rooms in a modern paniolo design, the inn boasts views of Mauna Kea. Suites include kitchens, and a complimentary continental breakfast is included until dining room service resumes once COVID-19 restrictions are lifted. The inn is within walking distance of many great nearby restaurants; it’s also a short drive to beaches.

Things to do in Kohala, Hawai‘i Island

Browse and buy local artwork at Wishard Gallery in Hāwī. | Photo courtesy Wishard Enterprises LLC

Wherever you stay, exploring the eateries, boutiques, and art galleries of charming Hāwī town can be an escape itself. (It’s also where bicyclists turn around during the annual Ironman World Championship; this year’s race is scheduled for October 9.)

Be inspired by local art at Wishard Gallery, an eclectic haven featuring originals, prints, and giclée by Hawai‘i Island landscape oil painter Harry Wishard and other artists, as well as local and estate jewelry and global artifacts. Its sister gallery in Waimea focuses on original paintings.

Take a farm tour at Lokahi Garden Sanctuary in Hāwī. | Photo by Natalie Young

Make time to venture out to the Lokahi Garden Sanctuary in Hāwī for a guided tour of its sustainable farm featuring more than 250 plant and tree species and expansive ocean views. Treat yourself to a custom, plant-infused spa treatment or massage with plants you gather on-site, followed by a lounge in the hammock to rebalance and rejuvenate. Or indulge in a whole-day getaway for pure comfort and nourishment.

Pu‘ukoholā Heiau National Historic Site offers a vantage point to spot humpback whales. | Photo by Russ Bishop/Alamy Stock Photo

It wouldn’t be a visit to Kohala without walking in Kamehameha I’s footsteps at Pu‘ukoholā Heiau National Historic Site in Kawaihae. One of the state’s largest restored stone temples, it was constructed without mortar in 1790 and 1791 by Kamehameha I during his quest to bring the Islands under his rule.

Pu‘ukoholā means “hill of the whale,” and the site is a scenic lookout for humpbacks in winter and spring. Other ruins include a heiau built as early as the 1500s, a submerged temple dedicated to shark gods, and the homestead of a once-stranded British sailor. Also visit the small museum on-site.

Where to eat in Kohala, Hawai‘i Island

Pop into local Hāwī gathering place Kohala Coffee Mill for a cup of 100 percent Kona coffee and breakfast and lunch all day. A newly renovated space and revamped menu have reinvigorated this local gem, and its lanai is still a perfect perch to rest and recharge. It also has a stylish sister coffee shop, Waimea Coffee Company, in Waimea.

Wok-charred ahi at Merriman’s restaurant in Waimea. | Photo courtesy Merriman’s Hawaii

Hawai‘i Regional Cuisine pioneer chef Peter Merriman’s flagship upcountry eatery in Waimea, Merriman’s, has been an elegant country treasure for more than 20 years. Serving predominantly locally sourced cuisine, it might be the best place to treat yourself to local flavors with the Merriman twist, from Kona Kampachi with roasted Hamakua mushrooms to a signature grass-fed burger. His creations are also available to go.

Indulge in flavors such as Kona coffee, Tahitian vanilla, and more at Waimea’s Tropical Dreams Ice Cream. | Photo courtesy Tropical Dreams Ice Cream

While not a scoop shop, a trip to the Tropical Dreams Ice Cream factory in Waimea sweetens the end of any day. The hard part is choosing from the more than 75 flavors made on-site, sold in cups, pints, and half gallons right from the source. Whether hugely popular choices Tahitian vanilla, chocolate coconut, and macadamia nut, or other favorites like mango cream, Kona coffee, and salted caramel, you may find you’ll need to store leftovers back at your home base.

Though regular AAA contributor Christine Thomas is based on O‘ahu, she can often be found exploring Hawai‘i Island during frequent trips to visit family in Kona.