Ka’ena Point State Park is a place of rugged beauty and spiritual energy

Far from Honolulu’s tumult, O‘ahu’s North Shore meets its west side at windswept Ka‘ena Point State Park. The majestic mōlī—sea-wandering Laysan albatross with more than 6-foot wingspans—nest, hatch eggs, and fledge their chicks here from November through July. Humpback whales often breach offshore during the winter, and Hawaiian monk seals laze on the beach and in the coves year-round.

The state park is the gateway to the 59-acre Ka‘ena Point Natural Area Reserve, one of the last dune ecosystems in Hawai‘i. Feathered wildlife and rare coastal native plants make their homes here. Hot, dry, and remote, the reserve is said to possess a certain mana, or spiritual energy, where sun, surf, and rocky shoreline collide.

Informational signage along Ka’ena Point Trail.

It’s an ideal place to explore O‘ahu’s bold but fragile wildness. Ka‘ena Point Trail makes an easy starting point. There are 2 ways to approach the reserve: from the north (Mokulē‘ia) or from the south (Wai‘anae). A parking lot on the Mokulē‘ia side of the island offers a reasonably safe and easy way to get there; the southern approach is sometimes blocked by a gate at the Keawa‘ula section, especially when the surf is high.

A midafternoon visit on a sunny, breezy day can be perfect for the 3.5-mile, one-way walk on the Mokulē‘ia route through the reserve. However, be sure to check the terrain and watch your step: The dirt road is rutted, and in the rainy season, you may have to negotiate mud holes. There is also a slightly longer walking track on the jagged coastline. Either way, you’ll be treated to vistas of the green windswept Wai‘anae Mountains rising on one side and the azure blue Pacific on the other.

Laysan albatross nest, hatch eggs, and fledge their chicks here.

After walking for about an hour, you’ll come to a green gate, then a locking safety gate and a nearly 6 1/2-foot-tall, 2,000-foot-long fence built in 2011 to keep out feral cats, dogs, mongooses, rats, and mice, which had long plagued the area’s wildlife.

The Department of Land and Natural Resources’ Division of Forestry and Wildlife
manages the state park reserve. Trails are easy to follow with informational signage throughout. Stop occasionally to scan the rugged terrain near the path for cleverly camouflaged chicks sitting on the ground or under the naio bushes.

A roughly 5-month-old Laysan albatross chick blends in with its surroundings.

With the secure fence, the seabirds can breed, nest, and raise their chicks undisturbed. Laysan albatross begin nesting around November, the eggs start hatching in late January and February, and the young chicks fledge in the late spring. Wedge-tailed shearwaters start to arrive by late winter and can be seen in the area until early fall. You might also see great frigate birds.

And you might feel something on your visit—that spiritual energy of a wahi pana, a legendary place for the souls of the departed to leap into the spirit world.

History in the making?

A congressional effort is under way to make Ka‘ena Point the state’s first National Heritage Area (NHA); there are 55 designated NHAs in 34 states, but none yet in Hawai‘i. An NHA can receive federal funds to help local communities preserve and manage the area under federal-state-community partnerships. The U.S. House of Representatives passed a resolution in March and the Senate introduced an identical companion bill in June calling for a 3-year, U.S. Department of Interior study regarding NHA designation.

Worth the hike

Hikers head north on Ka'ena Point Trail. Its 2 trailheads begin where paved road ends.

The Ka’ena Point Trail—about 7 miles round-trip on the north route and about 5.6 miles round-trip on the south route—is a moderate hike but may be strenuous for some, especially on warm days. Both ends of the dirt road walking trail, from the Mokulē‘ia coastline (North Shore) or from Keawa‘ula (the Leeward side), begin where the paved road ends.

There is no shade, so hike in the early morning or late afternoon. Wear a hat, apply sunscreen, and bring plenty of drinking water.
Allow at least 2 to 3 hours for the hike. Be aware of what time the sun sets and start the return leg well before it begins.
Stay on the trails and pathways. Don’t climb down onto the rocks, which can be slippery and susceptible to rogue waves.
No pets, smoking, or open fires are allowed in the park.
Keep your distance from the sea animals and wild birds.
Pack out your trash.

Honolulu-based photographer Ann Cecil enjoys taking walks around the city, perusing outdoor produce markets, and exploring the hidden sides of O‘ahu.