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Restaurant review: Model Citizen, Ventura

A solid choice at Model Citizen in Ventura would be handmade rigatoni with braised short rib, crème fraîche, and gremolata.

A stylish neighborhood restaurant with an upscale yet friendly ambience, Model Citizen fits in nicely with Ventura’s chill surf-town vibe. A modern, airy dining room with soaring ceilings combines seafoam green and sand hues with the warmth of light woods.

Owners and brothers Derek and Blake Ulrich have teamed up with chef Art Hernandez, whose  frequently changing, hyper-seasonal menu combines the area’s farm-fresh produce with sustainably raised proteins and local seafood in globally inspired plates.

Model Citizen yellowtail crudo.

An appetizer of yellowtail crudo utilizes olive oil from Ojai Roots.

You might start things off with a dish like yellowtail crudo, bursting with the bright flavors of preserved Meyer lemon, shallots, capers, chile, toasted pistachios, and olive oil from nearby Ojai Roots. Santa Barbara Hope Ranch mussels marry well with the rich flavors of vadouvan (a French curry spice blend) and grilled local sourdough bread.

Bowl of mussels with a side of bread.

A spicy French curry blend flavors mussels from Hope Ranch.

Fresh takes on classics include chicken schnitzel, made with Mary’s chicken breast and served with a crunch of frisée Caesar showered with pecorino cheese and radish slices, and handmade rigatoni with braised short rib, crème fraîche, and gremolata. Cap it all off with desserts like sourdough crème brûlée and seasonal Basque-style cheesecake, which during my most recent visit was flavored with Meyer lemon and cloaked in a fresh strawberry coulis.

The ever-changing cocktail menu and wine list highlight small producers. Cocktails include the citrus-forward Risky Business made with Mal Bien mezcal, bitter Italian aperitivo, fresh lime and grapefruit juices, house-made vanilla oil, and a touch of salt.

Happy hour is from 5 to 6 p.m. daily and all night on Monday, with discounts on a bar-bites menu and selected cocktails, beer, and wine. The double smash burger with bacon jam, bread-and-butter-pickled jalapeños, and crispy onions is a winner. Note: The entire staff shares a mandatory 18% service charge. Closed Tuesdays and Wednesdays.

Best dishes

Yellowtail crudo, Hope Ranch mussels with vadouvan curry broth, chicken schnitzel, rigatoni with braised short rib, Basque-style cheesecake

Dinner prices

Shareable plates, $7–$32; desserts, $9–$12

Address

70 S. Oak Street, Ventura

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