Restaurant review: Fisher’s, Little Italy

Fisher’s is a veritable dynasty in Mexico, where the family- run group operates no less than 9 restaurants in districts across Mexico City. It made its U.S. debut this year with an outpost in San Diego’s bustling Little Italy neighborhood.

Fisher’s focuses on seafood—and even maintains its own supply chain. A high-energy atmosphere backs an eclectic menu that mostly reflects regional Mexican cuisine with touches of Europe, South America, and Asia.

Designed for large parties, the modern brasserie-like space is flanked by a wall of windows that provide views of the gleaming kitchen. Traditions and service touches that have become Fisher’s signatures over the past 3 decades continue here: Meals begin with a complimentary glass of rich seafood consommé accompanied by fresh limes and Mexican saltine crackers. Individual juicers allow diners to add a squeeze of citrus wherever needed.

Fisher’s prepares its soups to order in individual portions rather than in large batches. Start with the deeply savory seafood soup, a medley of shrimp, fish, squid, octopus, clams, and mussels in a spicy red broth with garlic and onion. It’s finished tableside with a drizzle of olive oil along with a few drops of vodka and Pernod, an anise-flavored liqueur.

For a more refreshing starter, choose the shrimp aguachile, a plate of silky raw shellfish barely “cooked” in a bright marinade of citrus and serrano chiles, or the Peruvian-style ceviche—whitefish mixed with a colorful jumble of avocado, tomato, red onion, and cilantro, spiked with charred habanero salsa.