Restaurant review: Ferro, Idyllwild

Few things are as enchanting as a cozy, romantic restaurant in a woodsy mountain town. Such is the pleasure in discovering Ferro, nestled in the heart of Idyllwild.

From the outside, this unassuming Italian bistro blends in with the neighboring cabins, though the inviting sound of clinking glasses and lively conversation signals much more within. Inside, a fireplace crackles in the dining room across from a tiny bar that’s perfect for solo dining, while the outside patio showcases a hardworking pizza oven.

Begin with the pane di casa bread, especially delicious slathered in the accompanying seasoned whipped butter. Carpaccio di manzo, an artful swirl of thinly sliced beef tenderloin, shaved Parmigiano-Reggiano, and bitter arugula, revs up appetites for what’s to come.

Olive marinate—a lively mix of arugula, assorted olives, and pickled vegetables—does the same for those who don’t eat meat. Use the bread to scrape up every last bit of the zuppa di lenticchie Umbra, a comforting green lentil soup that’s thick in texture and herbaceous in flavor.

The wood-burning stove turns out tantalizing pizzas. Taleggio con carciofi e limone is piled with artichokes, olives, and a vibrant dose of lemon zest. Equally memorable, polpette di vitello is topped with hearty veal meatballs and juicy cherry tomatoes.