Undeterred by health-consciousness or inflation, steakhouses never go out of style. So it’s no surprise to see a new interpretation of the all-American institution. BLVD Steak is familiar and comforting enough to be timeless, and just different enough to be compelling.
While BLVD Steak eschews white linen, brass, and mahogany, its décor still evokes a classic, cosmopolitan vibe.
While BLVD dispenses with the retro steakhouse aesthetic (the requisite white linen, brass, and mahogany), its dark wood paneling, emerald-green banquettes, and wraparound marble bar still evoke a classic, cosmopolitan vibe. The accommodating service extends to an expansive patio that offers a more laid-back experience.
Starters include artfully plated yellowtail crudo, crab cocktail served in a cloud of dry ice, and sautéed shrimp in a creole butter sauce that’s worth mopping up with the accompanying grilled ciabatta. Those reluctant to invest in a lobster entrée can enjoy skewered pieces of the crustacean in an appetizer with a soy, garlic, and chile sauce.
Use the grilled ciabatta that accompanies the sautéed shrimp appetizer to mop up its creole butter sauce.
Steaks—among them a butter-tender, simply but perfectly seasoned filet mignon—are butchered from USDA Prime beef or pricier Wagyu from Japan or Australia. They arrive with a nice sear and distinct grill marks, and enhancements range from a well-executed béarnaise sauce to Oscar-style (topped with crab, asparagus, and hollandaise).
An unexpected entrée is a bowl of spaghetti topped with a giant Wagyu meatball and bathed in a pink vodka sauce. Seafood options include salmon and soft-fleshed, crispy-skinned branzino that hardly requires the accompanying chimichurri sauce.
A reimagined chicken piccata in which celery root stands in for poultry accommodates vegetarians; traditional steakhouse sides provide additional options. A tower of onion rings looks dramatic, but the lighter chipotle-lime corn is quietly satisfying.
Beyond classic cocktails that suit the setting, a wine list that’s somewhat short on bargains showcases California reds that pair well with steak. For dessert, consider a lofty slice of New York–style cheesecake or a decadent butter cake.
Best dishes
Sautéed shrimp with creole butter sauce, branzino, filet mignon with béarnaise, chipotle-lime corn, cheesecake
Dinner prices
Starters, $4–$95; entrées, $29–$195; desserts, $14–$16
Address
13817 Ventura Boulevard, Sherman Oaks
AAA discounts
